Beaver Tips
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Re: Beaver Tips
No, Ive seen that AWT wing, and it looks kind of scarey to me. I've also seen one of the original Baron winged Beaver's do a "Demo Take-off" at Watson Lake. It scared the crap out of all of us who were watching. That could have very well been caused by Bigshotism and Incompitence, which was inherint of the pilot involved. The one that I seen on the Wipaire site had a large vortex-generator about half-way down the wingspan and about 6inches aft of the leading edge.
"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation." -Herbert Spencer
Re: Beaver Tips
beaverbob wrote:A rod tube is not a normal mod and would have to be quite restricted weight wise because of its c of g. A beaver can have a 200 pound load limit behind the rear seats with structural mods.(Sealand baggage extension kit,)
thanx bb
Re: Beaver Tips
The Baron STOL kit has a cuffed leading edge, not unlike a Cessna 185 or 206 from the factory, A wing fence where the aileron and flap meet, gap seals between the flap and wing and drooped wing tips. No vortex generater. Nearly impossible to loose control or cause a spin in normal flight conditions. ie: straight or turning climbs or descents the stick can be held full aft and held that way with your feet off the pedels. The plane will go through a series of gentle stalls with the wings dropping, each in turn as it stalls, to about 5 degrees bank with a recovery back to level and a roll to the other direction of about 5 degrees bank. I demoed it to four potential purchasers and Dave Baron on board and the rate of descent through all this was about 700 to 800 FPM with the six of us on board. This was at the 50 year Beaver celebration in Victoria in 97.I also tried to spin it once with a professional test pilot from San Diago named Don Lykus, a lawyer and a videographer to record it for a court case. The only way we could get the plane to spin was at an Extremely high nose attitude left climbing turn with crossed controls to keep the ball in the center and nearly full power (2200 rpm and about 35"map). At that point the spin was very abrupt and the plane pointed straight down upon spin entry. But, like I said, a very unusual attitude and power setting.gapper wrote:No, Ive seen that AWT wing, and it looks kind of scarey to me. I've also seen one of the original Baron winged Beaver's do a "Demo Take-off" at Watson Lake. It scared the crap out of all of us who were watching. That could have very well been caused by Bigshotism and Incompitence, which was inherint of the pilot involved. The one that I seen on the Wipaire site had a large vortex-generator about half-way down the wingspan and about 6inches aft of the leading edge.
BB
Re: Beaver Tips
There are two Baron kits. One has the cuff, droop & gap seals.
The other, (the "Mark II"), also increases the angle of incedence by dropping the trailing edge of the wing about 2".
With the "Mark II", the airplane will climb without flap and none is required for cruise.
Cruise speed picks up by about 7kts as well.
'48
The other, (the "Mark II"), also increases the angle of incedence by dropping the trailing edge of the wing about 2".
With the "Mark II", the airplane will climb without flap and none is required for cruise.
Cruise speed picks up by about 7kts as well.
'48
Last edited by HS-748 2A on Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The fastest way to turn money into smoke and noise..
Re: Beaver Tips
HS-748 2A wrote:There are two Baron kits. One has the cuff, droop & gap seals.
The other, (the "Mark II"), also increases the angle of incedence by dropping the trailing edge of the wing about 2".
With the "Mark", the airplane will climb without flap and none is required for cruise.
Cruise speed picks up by about 7kts as well.
'48
It was intended to be one kit but the change in angle if incedence was not approved until a few years later. After that the kit was only offered as a complete single kit and Called a Baron DHc 2 - 2000. When I had my kit installed the angle change had not been approved yet.
BB
Re: Beaver Tips
FUEL STRAINING TIPS?
Sometimes i think one has to be a human equivalent of "gumby" to sample the fuel out of the -2, as you have to be quite flexible to get under the thing to get to the drain valves.
Any tips (aside from NOT straining, or letting it go in the soup with paddle) that will save the inevitable visit to the chiropractor are welcomed...
Sometimes i think one has to be a human equivalent of "gumby" to sample the fuel out of the -2, as you have to be quite flexible to get under the thing to get to the drain valves.
Any tips (aside from NOT straining, or letting it go in the soup with paddle) that will save the inevitable visit to the chiropractor are welcomed...
Re: Beaver Tips
Paint the tops of your spreader bars with deck tread and wipe the oil off so you have a place to stand.tzu wrote:FUEL STRAINING TIPS?
Sometimes i think one has to be a human equivalent of "gumby" to sample the fuel out of the -2, as you have to be quite flexible to get under the thing to get to the drain valves.
Any tips (aside from NOT straining, or letting it go in the soup with paddle) that will save the inevitable visit to the chiropractor are welcomed...
The fastest way to turn money into smoke and noise..
Re: Beaver Tips
Or make your own strainer, long tube of clear plastic with a stopper in the end so you can reach the drains without crawling completely under the plane, this also lets you get a good fuel sample as well
Re: Beaver Tips
If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
Re: Beaver Tips
Cuz if it'w warm out, you don't have to strain the fuel. Not in my few thousand hours experience anyway.
What little I do know is either not important or I've forgotten it!
Transport Canada's mission statement: We're not happy until you're not happy
Transport Canada's mission statement: We're not happy until you're not happy
Re: Beaver Tips
Took your advice - works great!buck82 wrote:Or make your own strainer, long tube of clear plastic with a stopper in the end so you can reach the drains without crawling completely under the plane, this also lets you get a good fuel sample as well
Water is never warm nor is it shallow.Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
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Re: Beaver Tips
Ummm maybe because I dont want to walk around in soaked pants all day? Do you always have clean pants waiting in your flight bag rowdy? I fell in once in Kingcome inlet and that was the longest, coldest flight of my life back to the spit in Campbell.Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
I think theres better ways to strain your fuel then wading in balls deep!
Buck82`s idea was much easier and drier!
For me, I didnt mind crawling underneath the -2, i was lucky to work for a few good ops that kept them in very good condition and pretty clean!. The tack on the steps that HS-748 suggested always worked well as an "anchor" point to hook the heel of my shoe on.
Fly safe.
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Re: Beaver Tips
Depends where you are, I recall a river in the Amazon basin that was really warm,Water is never warm nor is it shallow.
in fact it was so warm it was like a hot tub.
The hardest thing about flying is knowing when to say no
After over a half a century of flying no one ever died because of my decision not to fly.
After over a half a century of flying no one ever died because of my decision not to fly.
Re: Beaver Tips
flyinthebug wrote:Ummm maybe because I dont want to walk around in soaked pants all day? Do you always have clean pants waiting in your flight bag rowdy? I fell in once in Kingcome inlet and that was the longest, coldest flight of my life back to the spit in Campbell.Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
.
Hahaha I`m just being an ass! Figured you guys would have caught that by now
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Re: Beaver Tips
I don't know if this has been said in this post, but if your flap indicator breaks
you can tell when you have take-off flap selected if you (while still on the ground/water)
put your left aileron full down and pump the flaps down just past when they're flush
I wouldnt try this while you're in the air
This picture just shows the aileron droop and flaps. Not intended to be an example.
you can tell when you have take-off flap selected if you (while still on the ground/water)
put your left aileron full down and pump the flaps down just past when they're flush
I wouldnt try this while you're in the air
This picture just shows the aileron droop and flaps. Not intended to be an example.
Re: Beaver Tips
The Beaver is a great plane thats why its been around for so long. Insofar as operating tips:
1 Read and know the operating hand book they new what they were doing when they built them and the manual was written by people who knew what they were doing when they wrote it.
2 Fly it like you own it, show appropriate respect for the machine and its limits.
3 Warm it up properly
4 Start up as per manual avoid pumping throttle it will always start following the correct procedure
5 always shut down with mixture unless on floats and the need arises to use mags
6 Try and keep oil at or above 4 gallons more oil means better cooling and helps the engine last
7 It will start with throttle pumping but the risk of fire increases significantly why would you increase risk if there is no need.
8 On last flight of the day shut down if possible with prop feathered and start with prop feathered first cold start of the day this blocks oil from prop and therefore directs oil for lubrication when it is most benificial.
9 The Beaver is a cross between a tractor and a lazy boy and will haul a big load it can haul more than its published gross but when it is heavy it can be much more limited in its performance show due consideration
10 When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling
11 When flying a Beaver normally nothing has to be operated quickly or abruptly the only time agressive procedure is approproate is in an emergancy
12 Lastly enjoy the privelige of flying one these lovely old school classics for you are a member of a small and fortunate few who are so blessed I know I am
1 Read and know the operating hand book they new what they were doing when they built them and the manual was written by people who knew what they were doing when they wrote it.
2 Fly it like you own it, show appropriate respect for the machine and its limits.
3 Warm it up properly
4 Start up as per manual avoid pumping throttle it will always start following the correct procedure
5 always shut down with mixture unless on floats and the need arises to use mags
6 Try and keep oil at or above 4 gallons more oil means better cooling and helps the engine last
7 It will start with throttle pumping but the risk of fire increases significantly why would you increase risk if there is no need.
8 On last flight of the day shut down if possible with prop feathered and start with prop feathered first cold start of the day this blocks oil from prop and therefore directs oil for lubrication when it is most benificial.
9 The Beaver is a cross between a tractor and a lazy boy and will haul a big load it can haul more than its published gross but when it is heavy it can be much more limited in its performance show due consideration
10 When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling
11 When flying a Beaver normally nothing has to be operated quickly or abruptly the only time agressive procedure is approproate is in an emergancy
12 Lastly enjoy the privelige of flying one these lovely old school classics for you are a member of a small and fortunate few who are so blessed I know I am
Re: Beaver Tips
"When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling"
Surely you have that bass ackwards? Higher RPM means lower manifold pressure less energy consumed and faster prop speed means more airflow? Ergo bingo better cooling? Its been a while so set me straight if I have done you wrong.
Surely you have that bass ackwards? Higher RPM means lower manifold pressure less energy consumed and faster prop speed means more airflow? Ergo bingo better cooling? Its been a while so set me straight if I have done you wrong.
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Re: Beaver Tips
x2? Im thinking maybe he meant lower manifold pressure and increase prop speed??xsbank wrote:"When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling"
Surely you have that bass ackwards? Higher RPM means lower manifold pressure less energy consumed and faster prop speed means more airflow? Ergo bingo better cooling? Its been a while so set me straight if I have done you wrong.
Re: Beaver Tips
I USED TO RUN AT 28/18, AND GOT TOLD BY A LARGE AMO TO RUN 27/17 IF IT WAS running HOT. I THEN FLEW THE ARCTIC AND STARTED RUNNING 29/19 and leaning out, even at sea level. IT NEVER GOT HOT ENOUGH TO WORRY ABOUT OVERHEATING. fuel consumption vs. speed/time remained the same.
So are you suggesting running 27/19 when it's hot? (Been a while)
So are you suggesting running 27/19 when it's hot? (Been a while)
What little I do know is either not important or I've forgotten it!
Transport Canada's mission statement: We're not happy until you're not happy
Transport Canada's mission statement: We're not happy until you're not happy
Re: Beaver Tips
As per the Dehavilland Beaver flight manual:
Section V GENERAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND ALL WEATHER OPERATIONS
5.1.3
( Direct Qoute)
A tendency towards overheating, noticeable in the increase of both oil and cylinder temperatures, can be checked by:
A) Reducing engine speed with propeller lever rather than by throttle alone and by:
B) (During climbs) climbing at an indicated airspeed higher than the speed given for best climb.
Simply put the increase airfow generated by higher rpm does not offset the increased heat from friction generated by higher rpm
I can confirm this procedure as I have followed it in high temp operations
As I said in previous post when in doubt fly it by the book those guys really did know what they were talking about.
Section V GENERAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND ALL WEATHER OPERATIONS
5.1.3
( Direct Qoute)
A tendency towards overheating, noticeable in the increase of both oil and cylinder temperatures, can be checked by:
A) Reducing engine speed with propeller lever rather than by throttle alone and by:
B) (During climbs) climbing at an indicated airspeed higher than the speed given for best climb.
Simply put the increase airfow generated by higher rpm does not offset the increased heat from friction generated by higher rpm
I can confirm this procedure as I have followed it in high temp operations
As I said in previous post when in doubt fly it by the book those guys really did know what they were talking about.