Most of my flying is done well below the white arc on the airspeed indicator. Today I saw what the ol bird was really made of.
I sent it off to my co-worker who sent one back. In his plane, the arc starts at 10mph and increase every ten. So his needle it smack dab on the 10mph. "Good for you," I said over the air-to-air.
Rarely do I let things slip by me so I had to show him really who is boss:
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Qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum
Semper Fidelis
“De inimico non loquaris male, sed cogites"-
Do not wish death for your enemy, plan it.
Yes, I put in full power climbed and was quick on the camera phone.
Just think of stalling a 172 at 56, but holding that attitude a little bit longer and the needle dropping to 45 before you break left because of the torque. I just happen to fly a plane that has a few mod's.
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Qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum
Semper Fidelis
“De inimico non loquaris male, sed cogites"-
Do not wish death for your enemy, plan it.
That's a 27 isn't it ..? I sat in that seat a lot, but only as a grease monkey.
I heard the stories from the old guard at KFC how it used to be barber pole all the way, overtaking just about any jet out there. Not any more with hush kits, flap droop, and fuel prices as those JT8D-7s (good enough for KFC) still suck back the juice faster than a drunk on payday.
Yup thats a 727 mostly had the -15 and -17 so a little more jump but ya no barber pole with these gas prices, and burning 10K pounds of fuel and hour not to mention what it burns at take off thrust. however it was painfull to get stuck behind an RJ or Westjet and for that matter anything else always interesting to request a passing lane climbing out.
aeroyt wrote:you might want to check your oil temp seams a bit high.
Looks to be in the middle of the green arc to me... just shy of 200ºF.
Red line is at 245º, green arc starts at 120º...
Run it much cooler than that and you wont even boil off any condensation in the oil sump!
An oil temp of less than 200F for banner tow is
pretty darned good, IMHO.
Heck, I was doing an airshow in Central America
last month and my oil temp was over 230F. Not
much I could do - it was hotter than hell, and I
always run the throttle wide open for surface
aerobatics.
Personally, I don't much like multi-grade oil for
the summer - it's expensive, unnecessary, and
not always as good at high temps as the cheaper
straight grade.
For flat engines in the summer, I like Aeroshell
100Wplus (w/LW16072) and if the oil temps persist
over 200F, I start tossing in quarts of W120 (sae 60W).
A half-and-half cocktail gives me an effective W110
(sae 55W) but with LW16072.
Our poor 172 is usually a needle width away from the 245F red line while climbing to 10,000 on a 30C day. But pressure is right in the middle of the green and the oil filters never seem to have anything in them--not even carbon!
We use W100 (we don't need the additive). It seems that 15W50's viscosity improvers don't when the heat is on.
P.S. If you have an aftermarket oil filter, it may
be increasing your oil temps, which isn't good
for your engine.
I know that oil filters are like motherhood and apple
pie - criticize them at your own risk - but I don't like
oil filters on flat engines.
P.S. I would go over your baffling with a fine tooth
comb - over the years, pieces break and go missing,
and air escapes down without being forced past
the cylinders and oil cooler. If that doesn't help,
seriously consider a second, in-line oil cooler. And
get rid of the oil filter.
It is still less than 245F. Unfortunately, there are no other units on the gauge, but it is still in the green arc.
I actually just installed an external oil filter on our 206 and other than doubling the oil change interval, I haven't noticed any change in temps. It runs 3/4 of the way up the green arc to the 225F red line. Probably because the oil cooler is right in the prop blast.
I am obsessive compulsive, bordering on paranoia about baffles. I stick a trouble light behind them through the oil door or cowl flaps with the cowls on and look for holes and poor sealing.
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Last edited by iflyforpie on Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
I am curious why the installation of an oil filter will double your oil change intervals? I understood that you changed the oil due to the breakdown of the oil itself and the amount of combustion by-products in the oil. What part of that is improved by an oil filter? The filter will pick up finer pieces of carbon and arguably finer pieces of metal, and the filter is a sort of 'trend monitoring' that is useful, but why would you rather go twice as long before splitting the filter? Just Curious....
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"What's it doing now?"
"Fly low and slow and throttle back in the turns."
I only go by the manufacturer's required intervals, just being a knuckle dragger myself. Full flow paper element filters increase the interval from 25 to 50 on most opposed engines.
I would imagine it is because of better filtration. The oil probably hasn't broke down yet at 25 hours, but is becoming saturated with small contaminants the screens can't filter out.
Hahaha just about dropped my jaw looking at the pic of the 727 panel...until I read the little comment about the faulty indicator. I've seen the mach climb like crazy - very fast - in nasty turbulence in the 727, but never that high!!
full power and hanging on the prop at 600 feet
