EDO FLOAT REBUILD

[DHC2eater]

I`m in the process of putting new bottoms on a set of 2000`s....They are presently sealed with zinc cromate tape and the leaks repaired with PRC....They now use Bostik 920 according to the sales literature.

Does anyone have any suggestions or tips on other sealants that may be better???

DHC2eater

[HS-748 2A]

This is where I direct all of my float queries:

http://peckaero.com/

'48

[Cranium]

Zinc chromate tape is good, but getting very expensive.

I have seen success with automotive windshield adhesive / sealant - it is designed to be structural (for rollover protection) and watertight for the life of the car. If you ever need to remove a skin, however, you will destroy it. It makes a very strong bond - NOT for use on hatches.
Note - I don't mean windshield repair sealants, I mean windshield installation sealants - ours were obtained from an auto glass installer.

However, I don't know the legality of using this...

[HS-748 2A]

Zinc chromate tape is good, but getting very expensive.

I have seen success with automotive windshield adhesive / sealant - it is designed to be structural (for rollover protection) and watertight for the life of the car. If you ever need to remove a skin, however, you will destroy it. It makes a very strong bond - NOT for use on hatches.
Note - I don't mean windshield repair sealants, I mean windshield installation sealants - ours were obtained from an auto glass installer.

However, I don't know the legality of using this...

This is the stuff here:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd-dow-u-4 ... hesive.cfm
You're right. Never comes upart and Gawd help you if you get it on yourself.
I like it though and use it often in place of PRC. No mixing either.

'48

[culver10]

The windshield urethane sounds way too fast for me? It says it is tack free in 30 minutes. I would love to meet the team that can buck all those hundreds of rivets in less than 30 minutes!

[HS-748 2A]

It wouldn't be suitable for affixing the entire bottom. It's handy where you just need to do a small patch or seal a rivet or two.

[black hole]

I have used the urethane sealant for the complete bottoms as long as you have lots of clecoes. I always leave it for at least a hour to set and it stays a a live rubber for quite some time and is not messy like PRC or 3M 5200 or Sikoflex(sp). When you poke a rivet in it knocks out a little slug of material and squeezes just about right. Now this is providing that the riveting job isn't going to take a couple of weeks.FWIW I think this stuff is better that the old Chromate tape.

BH

[DHC2eater]

Black Hole...Which brands of urathane have you used and would you recommend

eater

[Cranium]

We used it for complete bottoms.

The first type was extremely stiff to work with and set up quickly - had to work fast to get it clecoed.

We found a slower-setting type - took about two hours to set; however, not ideal for patches as it needed about 24 hours at room temperature (dry) to cure properly.

Sorry, I can't remember brands or types.

[mmartin1872]

I have a suggestion. Talk to peckareo, or another 'float repair' shop, and ask them. I wouldn't want to be the 'liability' to be sued, because the 'sealant' that I used wasn't a certified product for the job I was doing, and heaven forbid, someone died because of it (which i doubt would happen, but if T.C. could prove that because of the sealant you used, the aircraft was an anchor in the morning, i could see some hefty fines coming your way, ie 'flying an aircraft that didn't meet the 'airworthiness requirements' x 'the number of takeoffs since the floats where repaired= $$$$$????.). I know there is a lot of stuff out there that works for the job, but is it the right thing for the job...

Mike

[Bulawrench]

I agree there are some really good products on the market these days.
There are several reasons for the zinc tape. most importantly,corrosion prevention and
Working time. The float manufacture should give recommendations but in the case
of EDO Eric at Kenmore could steer you in the right direction. They are the dealer and have
a large inventory of parts. It is sometimes better to get float guys to do the work
as they will have all the bucking bars and knowledge to do a good job.
Wipaire suggests secoflex for repairs but it makes more of a mess than PRC. I don't
think there is any zinc in it and since it is getting harder to get dangerous products may be an option.
When new floats are assembled the top deck is off and the bottom is easier to get to.
They even do the water test in china with the top off. A new set of 4930s have all the parts
anodized as well. Always water test after repairs.

[DHC2eater]

Thanks for all of your input

eater

[twotter]

I guess it's difficult to spell Sikaflex. There are different types and colors of it and there is also long and short cure times available. It makes no more mess than any other product, is fairly easy to clean up and is pretty much industry standard on the west coast. You can buy it at any good marine supply store.

[cramer604]

Sikaflex and 3m marine sealant is great stuff. It is way cheaper, premixed and stays flexible as compared to prc. Just make sure you use L.O.T. long open time for big projects like you are doing, and fast cure for small patches. The colours of Sikaflex are just for matching colours of sealant to the surrounding structures of what your appllying it to. So some times you may get a cheaper deal on the same product but on a less desirable colour. About 8 bucks and a caulking gun will do it. A dumped rivet is a leaking rivet, get a float guy to do the work.

[Hornblower]

The last major float repair I did was 3 winters ago … complete bottoms and other bits and pieces. Ed Peck supplied me with a one part water curable marine sealant that he uses … can’t remember the name of it though. Call him

It worked great. Ya it’s messy, but put the pieces together with lots of clecos (every second hole), while the sealant is still workable, wait a day, and it’s not so messy. The clecos will extrude out the excess, and the sealant remains bonded to both pieces, riveting will tighten up the joint and it will become totally sealed. Some additional extrusion may occur, but will not be a real mess. Three seasons later they are as tight as you could ever hope for.

I have used all types of sealant, the worst was zinc chromate tape. Additionally all the floats that I have ever taken apart were sealed with zinc chromate tape, along with all manner of other stuff ’cause zinc chromate tape never seals tight, does not bond, dries up after 15 or 20 years, is a powerful carcinogen, and stinks. Zinc chromate floats are almost never tight and will always require sloshing compound between compartments or some other exterior sealant to keep the water out … usually before you put them in the water the first time … in my experience anyways. It’s the 21st century …. Call Ed Peck

[DHC2eater]

I`ve been in contact with Eddie Peck and he`s been extremely helpful with parts and advice....Sikaflex 1A or Bostik 920 seem to be the sealants of choice depending on availability......Thanks for all the input

Eater

[sheephunter]

I agree with hornblower on the zinc chromate drying up. When my floats go in for the first time in the spring it is horrible how bad they leak, by day 4, not too bad by two weeks in the water I can leave it sitting 3 weeks before pumping and at that just get a little out. Really wish it wasn't ever just sitting for 3 weeks though. Is that slosh still available or can I seal the seam from the inside or outside with something else? One side has been sloshed before I got them and it is noticeably better than the side that didn't get done.