buck82 wrote:Or make your own strainer, long tube of clear plastic with a stopper in the end so you can reach the drains without crawling completely under the plane, this also lets you get a good fuel sample as well
Took your advice - works great!
Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
Ummm maybe because I dont want to walk around in soaked pants all day? Do you always have clean pants waiting in your flight bag rowdy? I fell in once in Kingcome inlet and that was the longest, coldest flight of my life back to the spit in Campbell.
I think theres better ways to strain your fuel then wading in balls deep!
Buck82`s idea was much easier and drier!
For me, I didnt mind crawling underneath the -2, i was lucky to work for a few good ops that kept them in very good condition and pretty clean!. The tack on the steps that HS-748 suggested always worked well as an "anchor" point to hook the heel of my shoe on.
Rowdy wrote:If the dock is in shallow water and its relatively warm.. why not just walk out underneath the plane?
Ummm maybe because I dont want to walk around in soaked pants all day? Do you always have clean pants waiting in your flight bag rowdy? I fell in once in Kingcome inlet and that was the longest, coldest flight of my life back to the spit in Campbell.
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Hahaha I`m just being an ass! Figured you guys would have caught that by now
I don't know if this has been said in this post, but if your flap indicator breaks
you can tell when you have take-off flap selected if you (while still on the ground/water)
put your left aileron full down and pump the flaps down just past when they're flush
I wouldnt try this while you're in the air
This picture just shows the aileron droop and flaps. Not intended to be an example.
The Beaver is a great plane thats why its been around for so long. Insofar as operating tips:
1 Read and know the operating hand book they new what they were doing when they built them and the manual was written by people who knew what they were doing when they wrote it.
2 Fly it like you own it, show appropriate respect for the machine and its limits.
3 Warm it up properly
4 Start up as per manual avoid pumping throttle it will always start following the correct procedure
5 always shut down with mixture unless on floats and the need arises to use mags
6 Try and keep oil at or above 4 gallons more oil means better cooling and helps the engine last
7 It will start with throttle pumping but the risk of fire increases significantly why would you increase risk if there is no need.
8 On last flight of the day shut down if possible with prop feathered and start with prop feathered first cold start of the day this blocks oil from prop and therefore directs oil for lubrication when it is most benificial.
9 The Beaver is a cross between a tractor and a lazy boy and will haul a big load it can haul more than its published gross but when it is heavy it can be much more limited in its performance show due consideration
10 When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling
11 When flying a Beaver normally nothing has to be operated quickly or abruptly the only time agressive procedure is approproate is in an emergancy
12 Lastly enjoy the privelige of flying one these lovely old school classics for you are a member of a small and fortunate few who are so blessed I know I am
"When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling"
Surely you have that bass ackwards? Higher RPM means lower manifold pressure less energy consumed and faster prop speed means more airflow? Ergo bingo better cooling? Its been a while so set me straight if I have done you wrong.
---------- ADS -----------
"What's it doing now?"
"Fly low and slow and throttle back in the turns."
xsbank wrote:"When running hot use lowest rpm to facilitate extra cooling"
Surely you have that bass ackwards? Higher RPM means lower manifold pressure less energy consumed and faster prop speed means more airflow? Ergo bingo better cooling? Its been a while so set me straight if I have done you wrong.
x2? Im thinking maybe he meant lower manifold pressure and increase prop speed??
I USED TO RUN AT 28/18, AND GOT TOLD BY A LARGE AMO TO RUN 27/17 IF IT WAS running HOT. I THEN FLEW THE ARCTIC AND STARTED RUNNING 29/19 and leaning out, even at sea level. IT NEVER GOT HOT ENOUGH TO WORRY ABOUT OVERHEATING. fuel consumption vs. speed/time remained the same.
So are you suggesting running 27/19 when it's hot? (Been a while)
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What little I do know is either not important or I've forgotten it!
Transport Canada's mission statement: We're not happy until you're not happy
As per the Dehavilland Beaver flight manual:
Section V GENERAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND ALL WEATHER OPERATIONS
5.1.3
( Direct Qoute)
A tendency towards overheating, noticeable in the increase of both oil and cylinder temperatures, can be checked by:
A) Reducing engine speed with propeller lever rather than by throttle alone and by:
B) (During climbs) climbing at an indicated airspeed higher than the speed given for best climb.
Simply put the increase airfow generated by higher rpm does not offset the increased heat from friction generated by higher rpm
I can confirm this procedure as I have followed it in high temp operations
As I said in previous post when in doubt fly it by the book those guys really did know what they were talking about.
adhc2 Thanks for the lesson. I learned something today. You cant argue with the AFM.
For me when I was constantly climbing out west, our CP instructed us to reduce MP by 2-3" and increase prop 50-100 rpm, and (+5/10 knots over Vr). It always seemed to work for us. Our SOP was 29/19 in cruise and 30/20 in climb.
Here's a good one for you. In the summer months; Carry a 3 foot piece of tubing in the door pocket. Clear stuff works good, about the size of a garden hose. When at cruise or a long climb, open the window and put one end of the hose out in the slipstream and the other end can be used as a vacuum cleaner to get rid of all those pesky black-flies in the windshield that are trying to get out. Just give them a hand.
Watch MP and RPM on takeoff. A couple of the machines I flew may not have been setup correctly in the governor or throttle linkages and would exceed takeoff specs. Overboosting is a quick way to put a lot of added strain and pooch an engine over time.
Each operator also wanted us to use a different set of power settings.. one wanted max continuous in climbs and then back to a low cruise of 27/17, another wanted to see 30/20 right after you broke water and 29/19 in cruise. Another wanted as low of a power setting as you could get in cruise. Plus each and every machine will have a slightly different "happy" spot. That goes for all aircraft engines. It might be a few rpm lower or higher or a couple inches or half an inch of MP than the factory settings. Those beautiful 985s are getting to be antique pieces these days.
I always found on longer trips that 28/18 worked best in one machine and another liked 26/1750. Things would just smoothen out, the pax would fall asleep from the drone and all would be well temp wise.
As per bible 5.1.2(b)
- Serious detonation may be caused if the engine is run continuously on one magneto, with manifold pressure as high as 25 to 30 In.Hg.
Could someone possibly shed some light as to why detonation would occur with operation on one mag?
Wouldn't operating on one mag be less efficient on fuel burn, and as a result may lead to an over-rich mixture?
What I know: detonation is the uncontrolled burn of the fuel charge in the cylinder, usually BTDC. Can cause serious engine damage. Overly-lean mixtures, cylinder head temps too hot, manifold pressure too high, ignition timed incorrectly etc.
WAG: on one magneto, perhaps the charge is not completely burned or the local temperatures are too high and when the next fuel charge is introduced it combusts spontaneously? Remember that above a certain throttle setting, (don't remember what that is - help me out here) excess fuel is introduced to keep the cylinder heads cool, perhaps it is this extra charge, compressed to a large degree by the supercharger, improperly controlled by the loss of half the ignition that causes the detonation?
The tetraethyl lead they used to add was to prevent some detonation and have a controlled flame front. That has been largely removed now. Also remember that the fuel is not supposed to ever 'explode' even at the correct time.
Rowdy, you have lots of "supercharger" experience, comments?
---------- ADS -----------
"What's it doing now?"
"Fly low and slow and throttle back in the turns."
Just for another WAG. Detonation can be caused by carbon buildups on the pistons that act like glow plugs and can cause ignition. I would imagine that one mag operation is less efficient and could lead to incomplete (rich) combustion and carbon buildups.