headsets (again)
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north of 50
- Rank 1

- Posts: 20
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2004 7:28 pm
- Location: N. Ontario
headsets (again)
i tried a fellow pilots DC13.4XL noise cancelling headset the other day. i was floored by the difference with the noise reduction on and off. i like DC but after hearing the noise cancelling function, i really don't care now whether it's DC or whatever. i've been flying radials around now for 4 years or so and i know the effects of noise fatigue flying 10, 12, 14 hours a day can have. i'm kicking myself for not trying them earlier.
what are your thoughts on the ANR. i know the argument about "how much does your hearing cost" etc., etc., but the price is a bit steep.
i have three pairs of DC's all in working condition. i wonder what i could get for them. i would gladly trade them in if i could.
any thoughts on this...
what are your thoughts on the ANR. i know the argument about "how much does your hearing cost" etc., etc., but the price is a bit steep.
i have three pairs of DC's all in working condition. i wonder what i could get for them. i would gladly trade them in if i could.
any thoughts on this...
extra fuel has no weight
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Regruntled
- Rank 2

- Posts: 75
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2004 2:20 pm
I have a Flightcom Denali ANR. The noise reduction is easily as good as a DC and a couple hundred bucks cheaper, and quite comfortable too. I have a big head and it fits me well, but people with smaller heads don't like it very much so it's probably worth trying one out first.
Good luck on the hunt!
R.
Good luck on the hunt!
R.
I have a Denali as well but find the gel ear seals are not as comfy at the DC. Also, whenever i turn my head, it lifts off and i get noise, lots of it!! (Maybe i have a small head??) If i was to do it again, i'd spend the extra 100 bucks and get the DC.
On a side note, does anyone know if some sort of an adapter could be made to power the noise cancelling unit from the aircraft power? Most headsets take a 9V battery, and it'd be nice to be able to plug it into the A/C 12 or 24 volt power!
On a side note, does anyone know if some sort of an adapter could be made to power the noise cancelling unit from the aircraft power? Most headsets take a 9V battery, and it'd be nice to be able to plug it into the A/C 12 or 24 volt power!
Try Lightspeed headsets. Not as durable as DC but much cheaper, and quieter ANR.
Many headsets will take the 12VDC (actually it's closer to 13.5) from the panel to save the batteries, you just need to plug in the cable and figure out the connector to the aircraft power.
If they don't, you can build/buy a simple voltage divider that looks like this:
+12VDC
|
3 ohm resistance
|
+9VDC
|
9 ohm resistance
|
Ground
The first resistor is 1/4 of the total resistance, which drops 1/4 of the voltage. Note that the total resistance (with no load at the (+9VDC point) is 12 ohms.
Since V=IR that means we will see a flow of 1 amp, no load.
Since power = I squared R, that means the first resistor must be able to dissipate 3 watts, and the second 9 watts - this is important.
Anyways, this is pretty trivial as far as electronics goes (!). You should be able to buy one just about anywhere, and if not, you can build one up pretty easy.
But keep in mind I'm not as bright as the average DOT Inspector.
Many headsets will take the 12VDC (actually it's closer to 13.5) from the panel to save the batteries, you just need to plug in the cable and figure out the connector to the aircraft power.
If they don't, you can build/buy a simple voltage divider that looks like this:
+12VDC
|
3 ohm resistance
|
+9VDC
|
9 ohm resistance
|
Ground
The first resistor is 1/4 of the total resistance, which drops 1/4 of the voltage. Note that the total resistance (with no load at the (+9VDC point) is 12 ohms.
Since V=IR that means we will see a flow of 1 amp, no load.
Since power = I squared R, that means the first resistor must be able to dissipate 3 watts, and the second 9 watts - this is important.
Anyways, this is pretty trivial as far as electronics goes (!). You should be able to buy one just about anywhere, and if not, you can build one up pretty easy.
But keep in mind I'm not as bright as the average DOT Inspector.
If you want the ANR without the cost, try finding a mod kit to put in your DC's. I got one years ago and put it in an old set of 10-30's. Cost me about $200 and an hour with a screwdriver and soldering iron. That was along time ago, so likely a little more expensive now, but if you've got a few headsets kicking around, modifying one is a great way to save some $$
I got mine from a place called Headsets Inc. Just checked and they're still around, I found them easy to deal with, just called, told them what kind of a headset I had and within a couple of weeks I had my kit. Wouldn't fly with anything else now. At this point I've got something like 3000hrs on the thing and it's still going strong. Uses 9v batteries and I find that I can get 8-12 hours out of a rechargeable, usually enough to get through a whole day and a spare fits really well into a 35mm film can.
All the benefits, without the cost. (that sounds like one of them commercials for that new-fangled beer)
I got mine from a place called Headsets Inc. Just checked and they're still around, I found them easy to deal with, just called, told them what kind of a headset I had and within a couple of weeks I had my kit. Wouldn't fly with anything else now. At this point I've got something like 3000hrs on the thing and it's still going strong. Uses 9v batteries and I find that I can get 8-12 hours out of a rechargeable, usually enough to get through a whole day and a spare fits really well into a 35mm film can.
All the benefits, without the cost. (that sounds like one of them commercials for that new-fangled beer)






