AME Apprentice Basic Tools

[Skywolf]

Hi Everyone,

I have recently finished AME college and am becoming an apprentice in an M1 shop. I am very excited about the opportunity and would like to be well-prepared. Therefore, I would like to know what are some good basic tools to start with and what are some brands to watch out for.

I have also been looking up Princess Auto and found that Mr. Blacksmith and Ingersoll Rand are within my budget. Does anyone have any comments on these two brands?

Thank you so much for everybody's help!

[7ECA]

Not necessary from an AME's perspective, but there are tools you can get away with more budget friendly options and then there are tools which demand the name brand pricey options.

The question becomes, do you want to spend less money up front and replace crappy tools eventually, or fork out the cash and get the tools that will last?

If you have a maintenance background and are mechanically inclined, then this concept will be quite familiar to you. You don't necessary need to be the guy with the ridiculously massive SnapOn or Proto... tool box filled to the brim from the back of the company sales truck. I mean, some of those big brands have lost their shine rather markedly in recent years - BOLTR videos will give you some insight there.

It's not unlike an apprentice sparky looking to buy their first set of tools; you can go to Cambodian Tire and get yourself a "skookum" set of Mastercrap tools that are "good enough" until you know better or break half of them. Or, you splurge a little and go to KMS Tools and get a nice set of Kleins... Or you go off the deep end and go for Wera or Knipex.

[-42]

A pen and knee pads.

[PilotDAR]

I largely try to have two sets of many tools - Cheap Canadian Tire or Princess Auto, which I may lose, or really damage on a yukky job, and, better quality of some, which I can depend upon to be precise. Generally, if it has a mechanism, I buy better, if it's solid (and I could resharpen it) I might settle for mid to lower quality. But if you're not happy with it when you're holding it at the tool store, put it back, you'll never get more happy about it later! More likely you come more to regret not buying better.

Screwdrivers - fixed, CT or PA are good enough, but I have a Snap On ratcheting, because the extra quality is worth it (feel/mechanism). It does not go into the field to work on the tractor, and my wife is under strict instruction it is never to be sought out to open paint cans.

Side cutters, spend the money for the better ones, don't even think about CT or PA for those, major disappointment! Pliers, a mixture of both for the same reasons as screw drivers, but you do need Knipex pliers wrench!

Wrenches; buy mid range. Snap-On/Mac etc are nice, but you don't need perfect quality. Honestly, I was very happy with the Sears Craftsman I had, and am replacing them with finds at antique shops! I also like "Gear-Wrench" brand for ratcheting wrenches. Avoid "clunky" looking wrenches, the larger head may not fit into tight spots. Never-ever wrenches which are not "forged".

Socket set: buy a good quality ratchet, and both good, and expendable sockets. If you buy the expendable ones first, as you grow your toolbox, that's fine. But avoid junky ratchets - it's worth the money for a good, fine ratchet mechanism, which will not slip and has no slop. You will eventually need Snap-On flex sockets, they are worth the money. You'll find that higher quality sockets will be a slightly smaller OD for the same socket size. This is nice for a tight fit. Extensions; any will be fine, if they feel nice in your hands.

Never buy any hand tools which do not feel nice in your hand. If the manufacturer does not care enough to make a hand tool which has a nice feel, its quality will be less than you want too!

For lockwire pliers, buy really good quality. Same for Allen keys.

For air tools: buy a very good quality rivet gun, don't compromise there - nice trigger! Air drill, a bit more flexible. As for other air tools, do you really need them? Or can you find battery equivalents? I have been very happy with Ryobi One brand, they have never disappointed me. I had had some much older (30 years old) Ryobi power tools, and they were fine. Ryobi seems to have maintained the quality and innovation. I'm not in love with Home Depot, but I do go there for Ryobi tools, and am 100% happy wiht them.

I had a workshop fire three years ago, so had a lot of tool replacing to do. I've learned a lot about what I'd had, what I need now, where to compromise, and hold out for better quality. Sadly, some tools I lost cannot be replaced new, I have found great reassurance scouring antique shops. Some rust clean up, restoration, and polishing has been worth it! Some of my good quality tools live on, it was worth restoring them as very high quality "second" tools, which I can risk losing, so maybe out in the field to the tractor!

[ludivicchua]

Before you graduate, the school will give you a list of basic tools that you need to buy. In case you don't have one, this is what the school gave me.


You have to lubricate the zerk/grease fittings, so you may need a grease gun also.
I don't know anything about M1, but I have never riveted/deriveted on job. Buy the air tools only when it becomes essential.

[nine sixteenths]

Before you graduate, the school will give you a list of basic tools that you need to buy. In case you don't have one, this is what the school gave me.


You have to lubricate the zerk/grease fittings, so you may need a grease gun also.
I don't know anything about M1, but I have never riveted/deriveted on job. Buy the air tools only when it becomes essential.

Decent start point for an M1/M2, from that list in the photos I’d say:
Skip the 3/8” speed handle
Punch set can come later
Don’t bother with “channel lock” by which they usually mean water pump pliers, you’ll just wreck stuff with them
Feeler gauges can come later
Blunt dental instruments = hook and pick set
Adjustable wrenches don’t bother, if you want something like that buy knipex pliers
Tin snips can wait
If the shop doesn’t provide the grease gun, eye protection and hearing defenders, don’t work there.

Don’t buy a bunch of air tools. I repeat, don’t buy a bunch of air tools. Not for M1/2 work.

If I was summarizing a list for an M1 I’d say:
Toolbox- if you can get one on wheels you’ll be happiest
1/4” 12 point socket set, SAE, deep and shallow
1/4 fine tooth ratchet
Some 1/4 extensions
3/8” 6 point if you can’t afford 12 point sockets, SAE, deep and shallow
3/8” ratchet
3/8” extensions
Pliers: clockwise pliers, needle nose, side cutters, small needle nose, and flush cutters. Lock wire pliers also
Hammer: dead blow and an 8oz ball peen
Allen key set, SAE, not the kind that are all connected to each other like a Swiss Army knife.
Good small flashlight
Small mirror
Extendable magnet
Hook and pick set
Wrench set, just ordinary 12pt box end, open other end combination wrenches, SAE set from 1/4”-1”. Mastercraft in a kit on sale worked fine for me for years, still my go to.
Utility knife
Screwdrivers: if you can afford that snap on ratcheting that’s the one you’ll use most. Add a bunch of #2 Phillips apex bits. Worth it so you don’t strip a ton of screws, too much of that and you’ll find yourself job hunting.
Phillips #1 and 2, standard (flat) 1,2,3. Mini screwdrivers (jewlery ones) are also helpful
Good attitude and willingness to learn

Might needs:
Spark plug socket (7/8”), and the adapters or 1/2” ratchet and extensions to use it
File set
Tin snips
Sheet metal tools
Knipex pliers when you can afford them

[PilotDAR]

I sure do agree with Nine Sixteenth's list and comments!

When buying 1/4" hex p[Philips screwdriver tips, I have purchased the diamond coated tips from Lee Valley. They have the engaging area of the screwdriver tip coated in diamond dust. The effect is that they engage the screw, rather than try to twist out. Yes, if you twist them out of the screw, you are going to wear the screw, but then you've probably declared the screw scrap anyway. the odd time, you'll have an inspection panel whose screws are silly tight (not inspected in the most recent decades). you can't push hard enough to really force the stubborn screw out, without angering the airplane. The diamond tips get you the same engagement with a lot less push.